Buttonhole-sewing machine.



H. G. MILLER.

BUTTONHOLB SEWING MACHINE.

APPLIUATION FILED SEPT. s, 1905.

Patented Ju1'y'23,1912.

14 SHEETS-SH1ET 1 QNN filament ,5 a. Wage).

anew-2'4 H. G. MILLER. BUTTOIYHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION IILED SBPT.8, 1905. Y I

' Patented July 23, 1912.

14 SHBETSSHEEVT 2.

M AQQN 1 l mines:

H. 0. MILLER. BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED SEPT. 8, 1905.

Patented July 23,

14' SHEETS-SHEET 3.

5301mm; v

H. G, MILLER.

. BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE. APELIGATIDN rum) SEPT. 8, 1905.

Lfifi fizi, v PatentedJulyZS, 1912.-

14 SHEETS-SHEET 4.

H.. G; MILLER.

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED SEPT. s; 1905.

14 SHEETS-SHEET 5.

fi VA WWIIIIIIIIIMII$$$2 I 13 i meme:

Patented July 23, 1912.

H. G. MILLER;

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE. APPLIOATION FILED SEPT. a, 1905.

Patented July 23, 1912.-

14 SHEETS-SHEET 6 c QM.

' gnuentoz Witness H. Q I LER. BUTTONHOLB SEWING MACHINE APPLICATION FILED SEPT. s, 1905.

Patented July 23, 1912.

14 SHEETS-SHEET?! anventoz Witnesses Patenteilf. 5111; 23, 1912.

14 SHEETS-BREEZE Suucni'ov aktoznn H. O. MILLER. BUTTONHOLB SEWING MACHINE APPLIOATION FILED SEPT. 8, 1905.

Pzitented July 23, 1912.

14 SHEETSSHEET 9.

i} '4 P7 z nucnfo z Qfvflmesoea V 7 YWZWM 0, MILLER. BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

APBLIGATION FILED SEPT. 8, 1905.

1,033,721, Patented July 23, 1912.

14 SHBETS-SHEET 10.

Snuentoz i ml attomug I 11. 0. MILLER I BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED SEPT. B, 1905:

11033372 1. Patented July 23,1912.

" 14 sHEETs HEET 11.

El wombat MZZzQ/M/ H. U. MILLER.

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED SEPT; g, 1905.

Patented Jul 23, 1912.

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@Vitnealszo H. G. MILLER.-

BUTTONHOLESEWING M AGHINE. APPLICATION-FILED SEPT. g, 1905.

- Patented July 23, 1912.

14 SHEETSSHEET 13.

H. G, MILLER, BUTTONHOLB SEWING MACHINE.- APPLIOATION H LED SEPT. a, 1905..

.Patentd July 23, 1912.

14 BEEGIFTSSHEET M.

All!

produce I HENRY o. MILLER, or WATERFORD, new YoRK.

BUrroNHoLn-snwme MACHINE.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Application filed. September 8, 1905. Serial No. 277,610.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, HEN RY C. MILLER, a citizen of the United States, residing at Waterford, in the county of Saratoga and State of New York, have invented new and useful Improvements in Buttonholesewing Machines, of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to improvements in buttonhole machines.

Manufacturers have for sought to obtain a machine which would standard length, and positive width, side and end buttonhole stitches. The importance of a structure having this characteristic maybe more thoroughly appreciated by those using a large number of buttonhole machines of usual type. These machines produce uneven stitching owing to the employment of a single cam for forming buttonholes of various lengths; levers, etc., being used to alter the movement. This mechanism is not positive in action, and

when one not thoroughly competent to handle a machine undertakes to make the necessary changes, low grade work, and a careless finish is the result. Frequently these machines when so set, form the end stitches too close together, resulting in the cutting of the end stitches when the slit is made. But this is not always the case, as a greater detriment exists, in that when the stitches are too close together the cutting blade while severing some of them, fre

quently skips others. When an article having a buttonhole such as-described reaches the public it tendsto put the grade of goods in ill repute. I have sought to cure these defects by arranging a set'of cams for vi brating the needle and feeding the fabric, for each size buttonhole, and cooperating mechanism to work with a selected setof cams. The cams positively engage cooperting parts so that when one set is changed or another, the time of operation is sure to be exact. My invention contemplates specific improvements in the cams employed to vibrate "the needle. I

In a pending application filed by me July 7, 1903, Nb. 268,752, I have broadly claimed a nett of cams for vibrating the needle, but- I hate found it desirable to provide means for positively holding the cams in contact with its operating member, during the time the operative faces of the cams are perform,-

a long time 5 down in dot-ted lines.

smooth surface where it may be drawn to thenext cam. In these grooves fit the edge of a cam lever, making it practically impossible for the lever to become disengaged from a cam before'its mission has been entirely performed.

A further object of my invention is to provide manual means for returning the feeding clamps to 'their normalvposition to properly position the stitches relative to the cutting blade, after the stitching mechanism is at rest. I find this essential inasmuch as 11 form a lap stitch at the side of the buttonhole, and must necessarily return the Patented July 23, 1912.

fabric to initial position for the cutting blade to sever the thread and form the slit.

This invention also comprises special mechanism for manually throwing the cutting blade into communication with the power, to sever the previously located thread, and form the slit in the fabric. This fabric, and the detail mechanism coiiperating therewith.

-Other objects and advantages will be hereinafter referredto and be particularly pointed out in the claims.

In the drawings: Figure 1 is a side elevation of my improved machine. Fig. 2 is a top plan view. Fig. 3 is a bottom plan view. Fig. 4 is an end elevation. Fig. 5 is a detail face view of. the fast pulley. Fig. 6 is an end elevation looking from the head of the machine. Fig. 7 is a detail" vertical section, illnstrr'iting the position of the upper and lower threads, previous to the descent of the cutting blade, the latter being shown in'normal positionin full lines, and Fig. 8 is a vertical section on the line 8 8 Fig. 3. Fig. 9 is asimilar view, taken on the-same line,but

showing the parts in different -position. 110

Fig. 10 is a partial section and side elevation of the right hand end of the machine.

'11 is a viewof a part of the A shaft 56, is mounted over the tilting arm 16, and it has fixed to it a projection 57, bearing a roller, adapted to bearon the arm 16, and rock it on its pivots to elevate the clamp feeder-s47, for the release of the fabric, or the insertion of another piece. An arm 58, is fastened to the shaft 56, and is in the path of a lever arm 171, operated by a manually controlled lever 168.

The needle bar 62, reciprocates in a vibrating frame 63, pivoted in the head 3, at 61. The frame is provided with an adjustable screw formed with cupshaped depression 65, and in the latter fits one end of a link i 66, the other end of which engages a similar depression 67, formed in a cam arm 68, and fast on a vertical rod 69, a spring 66"-,'serV- ing to hold the link in the cups. Cam arm 68 is formed with a beveled head 70, to engage with one of a nest of came 71, mounted on a stub shaft 3'' and formed with a beveled gear '13, meshing with the beveled gear 7.

The nest of cams shown, consist of five individual cams 74-75-T6-7T and 78, the three former being working cams, and the latter two switching came. The operative j'ieripheries of the cams are formed with V- shaped grooves, and the beveled head 70, of em arm 68, operating in said grooves is beveled accordingly to absolutely prevent disengagement except atthe proper point.

. This holding the cam arm in contact with the nest of cams insures of the needle being up and out of the fabric when the working cam is opposite the cam head 70, otherwise the cam head might shift from one cam to the other at an inopportune time, and bend or break the needle, or cause the fabric to drag and produce imperfect stitching. It will be noticed that only the operative surfaces of the cams are grooved, the latter merging into smooth. surfaces, so that the head 70, may be transferred from one cam to the other without fear of encountering the other, a point I regard as of vital importunes to ard the successful operation of my machine. i')uring the time the head is being shifted the needle is in the fabric.

Rod 69, operates in bearings, and'is provided with a collar 80, against which and the upper bearing is a coiled spring 81, to normally retain said rod in its lowest posi tion. The lower end of rod 69, rests on the fee end of lever 82, pivoted at83 to the bed 1 and having a projection 84. Projection 851, coiiperates with the time cam 30, the latter having peripherical suriaces 87--88-89 and 00, each cooperating with the Working cams.

(in one side of arm 2, is mounted a shaft 95, provided at one end with a bifurcated arm 96, engaging a pin 9?, projecting from bar 98, carrying at its lower end a cutting blade 99. Shaft 95, is adapted to be rocked by a cam groove 100, formed in the face of the loose pulley 6, in which is located an ejecting cam 101, the latter causing the disengagement of a projection 102, on an arm 103, fast on said shaft 95. The shaft is not only rocked but is moved laterally toward and from the head 3 by a latch 10%, and when. so moved, arm 96, travels on a cam surface 105, to insure theprojection 102, remaining in the cam groove 100, after the latch 10%, has been disengaged.

A. coiled spring 106, encircles the shaft 95, being located between one of the bearings and an adjustable collar 107; said spring serving to retain the shaft in its normal position, and also to disengage projection 102, from its groove. The cam 101, is what may be termed a safety device to insure the disengagement of the projection 102, from its coiiperating cam groove. The spring will accomplish this function under ordinary circumstances, but with a high speed niachi'n'e, the rapidly revolving pulley 6, is apt to carry the projection past its disengaging point, hence I have found it expedient to use the cam 101.

The latch 10 1, is pivotally mounted in a rocking frame 109, mounted on a stud 110, on the arm 2. Said latch, cooperates with a projection 111, on shaft 95, to throw the cutter into operation, and offset from the. projection is a lug 112, which is in the path of the latch to disengage the latter from the projection when shaft is rocked, so that the cutter will make but one stroke.

A lever 114 attached to the rocking frame,

is connected by a link 115, to an arm 116, on the shaft 56. so that upon movement of the shaft after the stitching operation is over, the latch is moved to throw thecutter into operation.

The stopping and starting mechanism is substantially the same as that described in my pending a plication No. 262,401 filed May 26, 1905, but in order that the operation of the present invention may be understood I will briefly describe it. The fast pulley 5, is formed with a sleeve 120, on which the loose ulley 6, is mounted, and on the hub of said fast pulley, and a hub of the arm 2, operates a grooved collar 121, provided with a lug 122, and a dependin arm 123, having an eye at its outer end. 1% ring 12 1, works loosely on the-periphery of the collar 121, and an arm extendsfrom the ring, and is connected With a second arm formed with an opening to engage the sleeve 120, and an eye 125, through which the power belt 126 passes. A piv'otally mounted spring actuated pawl 6 is mounted on the inner face of the fast pulley, and is normally in the path of the lug 122. On a shaft 128 mounted on the bed, is a plate 129, which has a flanged end 130, to engage the edge of the ring 12%, to move it in the. operation ores t I treadle 138. A lever 139, extends from the plate-129, and connected to it is a spring 1 10-, which acts to draw the lever up and throw the parts to stop the machine. A link 1 1, connected to the rocking latch 101, has loop at its lower end through which the lever 139, passes. When the machine is at rest, the link is drawn up by reason of the latch having been thrown outwardly by the lug 112, hence when, the lover 139, is depressed to start the machine it encounters the loop and tilts the latch to set it in operative position for the cutting operation.

A lat-ch 112, is ivoted to the bed at 143 has formed Ti'lbil it a projection to catch over and hold the lever 139 in operative position, while the opposite end of said lv ver is positioned in the path. of a lug 1 14., on the drum cam 29. At the proper time this lug strikes the lever 1412, and disengages the lever 139,10 automatically stop the machine.

in my pending; op lication for Patent, No. 251,307, filed Marcll 21, 1005, 1 described generically means ,for automatically severing the thread when the buttonhole was cut.

The thread in this instance is cut by the cutting blade, the same as in the previous application, but; the means employed for placing the thread has been materially changed. Pivoted at 150, to the underside of the bed is a curved arm 151, Whose free end is formed with a notch to en age the thread of the lower stitch forming mechanism, and a spring 152, is employed to hold the armin its normal pos ion. A sliding bar 153, is moimted in bearings on the underside of the bed, one end of said rod be: ing positioned opposite a pin on the curved arm 151, as shown in Fig. 3, to engage the same and turn the arm on its pivot to place the lower thread across the path 01 the cutting blade The sliding. bar has attached toit block 156, adjustable by meatns of 7 screws and slots 15?. The block has formed in. it an inclined slot 158, in which fits a.

Din159 on a sleeve in which. is mounted the shalt 18, so that as the bar is movedthe pin is ctnised to follow the'slot and'roclz the shaft 18 to disengage the worm 21, iromits gear 28. Just after this movement takes place a finger 1%, pivoted to the bar, and

start the next buttonhole stitch.

Sliding bar 153, is moved to cause the above mentioned operation by an arm 168,

on an operating shaft 164:, striking a projection 165, While the spring 23 serves to restore said bar to its normal position. When the bar is advanced, the tension of spring 23, is increased, and as previously described, one

end of it is fastened to a projection on the rockingbearing, and assists the pin 159, and cam slot 158, in holding theworm 21, separated from its gear 28. i Y

The shaft- 161, has secured to it a lever 168, connected to a chain 169, attached to a pedal 170, also secured to shaft 164,-,is a lever arm 171, bearing a roller 172, which contacts with a cam arm 1T3, pivoted at 17%, and provided with a lever 1'15, and thecrank arm of a short shaft 171', mounted in bear ings 173, on the head Zip-Attachedto the lower end of shaft 177, is a curved arm 179,

the free end of which is positioned so as to throw the thread of the upperstitch forming mechanism across the pathof the cut ting blade 99. When shaft 16 1', is rocked the lever arm 171 contacts With the cam arm 173 and rocks it, and through the link connection, the curved arm 129, is moved to accomplish its mission. The devices for plac ing the upper and. lower threads across the path of the cutting blade being operated by the same shaft, both threads aresimultaneously moved so that the cutting blade severs both of them in one operation. lVhen the shaft 164 is rocked, the roller 172, first contacts with the cam arm 173, and then strikes the arm 58, and depresses the tilting arm 16, to raise the feeders 17, however, it will be noted that this operation-does not take place until the other movements described have been accomplished.

204., indicates a tension device mounted on the arm 2, and comprising a pair'oi spring actuated beveled disks 201, between which the thread passes. A. bell crank lever 202, is pivoted opposite the disks, the pcint'of said lever being beveled and fitting between the disks, While to the free end of saidlever is, connected a rod 205, secured at its opposite end to the lever 139. When the mechanism is started the bell crank lever 202, is rocked on its pivot, and beveled end is disengage between the disks, and so that when the thread is drawn not it 1s under tension, but when the stitching operation is over, and lever 139, is thrown up to its normal position the disks are.-

spread apart, and the thread is siaokened, so that the arm 179, can draw the thread to position 1131111 thepath or the cutting blade,

sewing: l

w arer at the same time provide ample thread to start the next stitching. operation.

Thefi general operation is-as follows: The

operator depresses tread-lo 138, and through y washer 190 or the like is placed between the drum cam and one of the abutments to take the arm 135, the plate 129,'is rocked on its pivot, :The outer end of lever 139, being caught by the-catch lever 1 12, and held until automatically released, after the stitching operation is over. When plate 129 is rocked the head 130, moves the ring 124, and this in turn. shifts the belt'126, from the loose to i the fast pulley. As the ring 12 1, continues to move 1t contacts with the collar 12]., and moves. the latter, to remove the lug 122, from the path of the pawl 6 By the time the lug 122, is outof the way of the pawl, belt 126, is thrown onto the fast pulley, where- .upon the power is applied to operate the stitching mechanism, and the feeding mechanism. The rapidly running fast pulley 5, throws pawl G outwardly against the tension of its spring, where it remains during the stitching operation. Power having been applied, shaft 1, through its connections in 'head' 3, reciprocates the needle, while the gear 7, and its connection operates the vibrating nestof cams 71', and the gears 8- and 10 operate the lower stitch forming mechanism 13', and the feeding devices 617.

' Shaft 9, is constantly revolved when the fast pulley is in motion, and by the con nection between the worm 14c, and worm gear 20, shaft 18, is intermittently revolved, hence the drum cam 29. When the machine starts, the projection 44:, is at the point 37, and the cam is intermittently revolved, the portion 36, feeding the fabric in direction of arrow a, (Fig; 2) forming the side stitches A, (Fig. 27 When the point 35 of cam groove 31 is reached the feeders remain stationary, because of the lateral movement of the cam on its shaft.v That is to say when the angle of the cam groove.

ately after their completion the laterah movement of the cam ceases, and the portion 341, of the cam groove reverses the intermittent movement of the feeders 47- 17 in direction of arrow b, until point 33,, is reached, during which time the opposite side stitches G, are formed, whereupon by reason of the lateral play of the drum cam on the shaft in the opposite direction, the feeders are again held stationary wh le the other barring stitches D, are formed. These stitches having been completed the cam portion 33, ofthe groove 31, again reverses the movement of the feeders in the direction of the arrow a to form the shorttying stitches E, after w ich the stitching mechanism is automatically stopped by the lug 1%, eontacting with the'lever in; the. projection 44.,- remainingat the point 32, as shown in dotted; lines in Fig; 27'.

When making plaln buttonhole stitches a up the lateral play, referred to. In this event the feeders do not pause as previously described, but on the contrary their movement 1s immediately reversed.

' The time cam 30, is intermittently revolved simultaneously with the drum cam,

ric to receive the side stitches A, thecam surface 87, is acting on lever 82, to position the cam arm 68, so that the head 70, will register with the cam 7 1, of the nest 71.

Cam 7 1 is of such shape as to vibrate thenocdle to produce thezig-zag stitches A. When these stitches have been formed the cam 87 raises the lever 82, and. its projection rides on the cam surface 88, to position the head 7 0, adjacent the cam 77 to switch head 70 opposite cam 75, the latter vibrating the needle to produce the barring stitches B, (the feeders in the meantime remaining stationary). The end bar stitches B, haw ing been formed, the cam 88 lifts the lever 82, and the projection rides on the cam surface 88, and by the switch cain 7 S, the head 70, is positioned opposite cam 76 and as the movement of the feeders has been reversed, the opposite side stitches C, are formed,

upon completion of which the feeders pause, and the cam S9 drops projection 84 onto cam 75, and the tying stitches E, are produced. The nest of cams is revolved sufficiently to form the latter stitches, and' when they are completed, the adjustable lug 14H on the drum cam strikes the end of the lever 142,- and disengages the, lever 139, of

the plate 129, and the spring 140, immediately applies the stop motion. I

To better understand the operation of the cams andthe manner in'which the switching cams perform their function, it will be necessary to refer to Fig. 23; Assume the follower 70, to be operating in the working cam 76,- and the cam nest is revolving in a direction of arrowX and it is time for the follower to position itself before working cam 75. Obviously the follower cannot become disengaged from the cam 7 6,- because of the grooved periphery. Hence when the cam has revolved to bring the portion A, of

the nest in line with the follower and if it loop of the end, and, the. secou toward the test pulley and positions the stitching operation 7. At this the :lollower is brought to the smooth pozt-ioul), Where it Will move laterally to the Working cam 74. It will of course be urotlerstood the follower is placed oppos te the barring Working cam '35, twice; once for forming ehal barring stitches at one time, for forming the barring stitcl the other end f the hutton ole. The Whole cycle of place automatically open 10H.

When the plate 129, is 2ier-- rnal posit-ion by its spring", the power belt is first thrown from the ffil) to the loose pulley, and simultaneously the friction belt 131, is tightezoerl on the fast pulley to reduce the speed. of the letter. movement of the plate also moves the coller 12 1 lug n 122, in a plane with the pawl The speeclof the fast pulley until ti the pawl overcomes the co tug; i tome and advances the point of sale pawl ward the center of the shaft, eipon it encounters the stop 122, aiicl r0 the (lo pending arm 1'23, and the friction belt is further tightened on the test pulley, Fig. l) and quickly brings the power shaft to a stand-still" This stopping means While absolutely effective anal sure, does not in the slightest cause a sudden and by reason otthe arrangement parts with which saitl means coiiperate the neeclle Wi I he stoppecl above the fabric. The butt! sole stitches are now completec, and it or. remains to cut the slit E, sever the threas G, and set the fecal op mechanism the next operation. down the lever 1 position in. shaft 95, prevlcu the cutting blade can be .into coimection with the power meeheriisf will he remembered that "when the c "ection i4- "Wes the chit 32 and it mu t 1 E a manna l inoveclto the per o0 prop-- erly position Hi3 stitches reiatl e to the cut tinhleiie and o locet the is tiers to form t: a P

' the stitches for theziext huttonhole, but heby means r the path E3moultanee usly W1 ii H) -1*c he P 1 .1, (Kim! L-Mo love. 1'15, amt 'hi'oigh the connectlous the upper curved arm 179, is turned to posltion the upoer thread in the path of the cutting blade. As movement of the bar 153 1s continued. and alter the Worm and ear are l 1 1.7 I L b 1.1

engages me ringer loO, SLflliBS the lug on the drum cam 29, and turns it sufficiently to posltlon the pro ection 44, at

L of the groove 31, which moves in e TL I e I the feeders to properly position the stitches r819; e Queen hlacle.

filter th the us hav em positioned the arm 116, on shaft c s tl e irame 109, on pivot, and the latch 10''}, forces the shaft against the s 3 an 1.06, and the projection 102, on arm 10' LEG 5d into the cam. groove 100, in the of the loose pulley 6. Lnmetliately the cam groove 109, rocks shaft 95, arm 98, travels on. the com surface 105, insuring the engagei'neut of the projection and cam groove, to complete the stroke of the cutting bls le. l on the 5, is roclcil, the lug tl 10 2, out of the Way,-so that the 1 make but one stroke, notwithstandi: operator is still holoing clown the lever 166.. When the loose pulley has made one comthe stzn'tplete revolution, the cutting blade forced clown and drawn up whereupon the cam 101 returns the shaft to us normal position. The parts are so timer that, immediately the cutting blade lescemls to sever the threads and out the slit in. the fabric by continued pressure on the lever 168, the roiler 172, Will contact with arm and rock shaft 56, and elevate feeders, for tl withdra anti the insertion of release of on springs 23 anti 1%, r'etum the pi normal pee, on.

construction clescrihec i a huttonhole machine, which c simple durable, the parts ranged so as to read aml access them, for repairs, etc,

as will he tullygsrmreciatecl by those skilled 'lIl/tlifi art.

, eutly occu s in tories using number of buttozoholemachines, that a particular machine 'coulrl be used to better advantage it 57ers possible to quickly change the parts to stitch a longer or shorter buttonhole; I have found that by err-ang- King 2% worm 23., anal nest cl cares 

